The first question that crosses your mind as you bite into Boqueria’s sumptuous tapas and raciones is whether everyone is so deliriously happy because of Spain’s recent World Cup victory, or is it simply the food? By the end of the meal, you’re more focused on the fact that, in contrast to the tiny, costly portions at many of the city’s tapas joints, your meal of several small plates has left you pleasantly (and maybe even dangerously) full. And while the restaurant’s clean, elegant aesthetic—pale-wood walls and tables, soft lighting, marble-top bar—hints at sophisticated late-night shenanigans, Boqueria, named for the famous Barcelona market, follows the venerable Catalonian tradition of blurring the distinction between brunch, lunch and dinner. In other words, you can choose your own culinary adventure all day long: quaff a glass of the house sangria (check the carta del día for special sangria concoctions like the one with gin, kava, honey, lavender, almond and citrus) at noon, then return at 2 AM for a bedtime plate of churros and hot chocolate.

Ensaladita xató (anchovy and soft-boiled-egg salad)
Alcachofas fritas (deep-fried artichokes with arugula and potato)
Buñuelos de bacalao (salt-cod fritters with citrus aioli)
Txipirones (grilled baby squid with olives and garbanzo beans)
Albóndigas (lamb meatballs)
Torrija y helado (sweet caramelized toast with yogurt ice cream)
*seasonal items change frequently

Every seat at Boqueria Flatiron and Boqueria SoHo (including those at the friendly bar) is just about equally well appointed. The problem is finding one. Aim to arrive at an off hour, like 4 PM, for your best chance of securing a table without a wait.

How did the “Catalan” chef here come up with a name like Seamus Mullen? (Answer: by growing up Irish-American on a farm in Vermont and earning his street cred at several prestigious Barcelona kitchens, as well as the Michelin two-star Mugaritz, outside San Sebastián.)